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EOSC - Breaking Waves
Quiz by
mskp
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Last updated: February 26, 2023
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First submitted
February 26, 2023
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Hint
Answer
open ocean
h > 1/7 L
as waves approach shore
H/d roughly 3/4
in what order?
whichever is first
breaker
where waves start to break
types - 1
spilling
2
plunging
3
surging
determined by ...
slope of floor
1
flat bottom
energy released ...
slowly
over wide area
hazard level
not
2
steep bottom
energy released ...
suddenly
can be violent
hazard level
can be
have experience
Hint
Answer
3
very steep bottom
energy released ...
very fast
limited area
don't break
hazard level
deadly
wave refraction
waves bend
waves approach at angle
the part that gets to shallow water first ...
slows down
causes
shore straightening
bc waves ...
converge on headlands
diverge in bays
longshore drift
net movement of sand
longshore current
what moves sand
longshore transport - water ...
approaches at angle
runs straight down
so sand moves ...
parallel to beach
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