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EOSC - Understanding Waves

Quiz by mskp
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Last updated: February 10, 2023
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First submittedFebruary 10, 2023
Times taken5
Average score42.4%
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Hint
Answer
wave
propagation of energy through a medium
the medium ...
doesn't move much
what generates a wave?
forces
wavelength (L or lambda)
distance for one full cycle
unit
m
crest
highest point
trough
lowest point
height (H)
vertical distance from crest to trough
unit
m
amplitude (a)
half the height
unit
m
steepness
height/wavelength
period (T)
time for one cycle
unit
s
frequency (f)
cycles per second
unit
Hz
celerity (c)
wavelength/period
aka
speed
unit
m/s
ocean medium
water
the particles ...
rotate in place
the force creates a ...
disturbance in the fluid level
restoring force
tries to flatten it out
 
overshoots
ocean waves are generated by ...
wind
called ...
wind waves
wavelength
60-150 m
 
change in atmospheric pressure
called ...
seiche
wavelength
1 km
 
geological events
like ...
earthquake
 
landslide
 
volcano
called ...
tsunami
wavelength
200 km
 
gravitational pull
called ...
tides
wavelength
20000 km
which is ...
half of earth's circumference
small wave
< 1.7 cm
called ...
capillary waves
restoring force
surface tension
from ...
hydrogen bonds
larger waves
> 1.7 cm
called ...
surface gravity waves
restoring force
gravity
water particles move
backwards then upward
as the ... passes
trough
and ...
forward then downward
as the ... passes
crest
in open water, orbital motion ...
decreases with depth
wave base
bottom of the wave
where ...
there is no motion
roughly
half of the wavelength
deep water waves
depth more than 1/2 wavelength
 
does not interact with ocean floor
waves
travel in groups
by ...
wavelength
because speed depends on ...
wavelength only
speed is ...
1.25 sqrt(L)
 
1.56 T
shallow water waves
depth is less than 1/20 wavelength
 
feel the bottom
so orbits become ...
ellipses
by ...
friction
intermediate water waves
between them
meaning ...
depth more than 1/20
 
less than 1/2
speed depends on ...
depth only
speed is ...
3.1 sqrt(d)
swell
long wavelengths
chaotic sea
many wavelengths
as a wave approaches the shore
turn to shallow waves
 
decrease speed
 
decrease wavelength
 
increase wave height
 
increase steepness
 
T is constant
 
orbitals flatten
 
KE is lost to friction
breaker
waves start to break
 
crest is faster than wave
 
crest falls forward
when ...
H/depth is 3/4
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