Harsh-Harsh Norilsk

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Intro

Naturally, I was wrong, and no one is chasing deer, arctic foxes and even musk oxen on the tundra, except fat deputies and crazy tourists with thick wallets who do not know how to entertain themselves. And I did not live in the famous Norilsk, but in a tiny Dudinka located nearby. But life was still very entertaining.
Lenin looks at the Yenisei

Ways to get in/out of Taimyr

Dudinka, Norilsk, as well as the suburbs of Talnakh and Kayerkan are cut off from the rest of Russia (thank you, Putorana), and so much so that Russia is commonly called the "mainland". Unfortunately, people who count money realized that the 1,500 km long road between Norilsk and other cities is too expensive and unprofitable, so residents of Taimyr (where Dudinka and Norilsk are located) can only fly by plane or sail by ship along the Yenisei. But rivers have an offensive property of freezing in winter, so they almost always use the first option.

By the way, one mustachioed citizen, Iosif Dzhugashvili, decided to sort of help the residents and build a Transpolar highway from Vorkuta, through Nadym and Urengoy (where I also managed to live) to Norilsk by the hands of convicts, but somehow it did not work out and specifically the convicts connected Norilsk only with Dudinka.

Airport Alykel is quite large (for serving 150k people but the passenger traffic is more than 500k). Appreciate the pleasant color scheme

Who heads whom?

You might think that Dudinka is a satellite city of Norilsk, but no. Apart from the fact that they are separated by a 2—hour drive, they belong to different districts, and until 2007 - regions (Dudinka was the capital of the Taimyr Autonomous Okrug, Norilsk was an enclave of the Krasnoyarsk Krai). In addition, Dudinka is a 350—year-old port providing 80-year-old youngster of Norilsk goods.
For a fun life in the port there is a Giraffe

Why live there?

As the solfeggio teacher said: "Dudinka is the perfect place to study! You're sitting, there's nothing to do at home, on the street -40"

Well, of course — high salaries. Under Stalin, Norilsk was not settled very voluntarily. After him, the order changed, so in order for someone to agree to live there, the government pays workers in the Far North a lot of money. A simple example: the minimum wage in Taimyr, and try to live on it, is 30,000 rubles (according to the merrily dancing exchange rate, it is $500), which on the mainland is considered an average salary; the average salary is 50-60,000 rubles (600-900; on the mainland it would be considered a decent salary); if your work is connected with the Norilsk Nickel corporation — $2000-3000.

But this is a double-edged sword: almost everything is 2 times more expensive, especially fruits and vegetables.

Unfortunately, because of the nasty properties of rivers in winter, everything can only be delivered by plane, and nasty capitalists know that it's more expensive, so instead of cucumbers, beef and tomatoes, you're probably eating a space suit or iPods.

Some people believe that it is not necessary to eat such food, and get beriberi, scurvy or something else.

"How to get to the Ocean? " — the military man asked me.  "Straight along the Yenisei, then along the Kara Sea" — I wanted to make a 'witty' joke, but subordination took its toll and I had to show the way to the supermarket

Breathe in the whole periodic table!

Norilsk is an industrial city, so factories are working hard on air pollution. Therefore, the city has a bad reputation for being the most unecological in Russia (so that you understand, the average industrial city in Russia is already very bad in this regard). Coming out for the first time in Norilsk, I closed my nose (though not because of bad air, but because of prejudice).

For the word, the wind, apparently, does not bring the muck to the Dudinka, so it breathes in full chest.

In 2020, a chemical leak occurred in Norilsk. The environmental accident turned into a scandal, but, as scandals should, it has already been forgotten

Is Norilsk Hell? 

Is Norilsk a Norwegian town? Unfortunately for Norilsk, Kayerkan decisively selects his title. In a word: in front of many houses in Kayerkan there is a sign "CAUTION! POSSIBLE COLLAPSE OF THE FACADE"
To make the residents of Kayerkan not so sad, it was decided to paint the houses in a rainbow!
My sister leaned on her brother, who missed her, that she had performed in the Crimea...
— "Dad, how would you rate Norilsk for depression?" — said the sister.  — "Well, 7/10" — "And Kayerkan? " — "Kayerkan — all 12"

Attractions

I think we'll slowly limit ourselves to just Dudinka. It has so many attractions! 
For example, a local history museum (by the way, quite good) with bones, skin and other mammoth organs. There is even a stuffed mammoth.
That's it. I will not show my bad manners and emphasize the exhibit on the right
We performed as an ensemble at the anniversary of the Museum, it was very interesting. I don't think anyone is interested in such details of the biography
And there was also an exhibition of Tuvan gold, to which the venerable Art History teacher decided to drag us, running away herself after half an hour... 
We will not stop at the art objects "Cheburashka made of bricks on the kindergarten wall", "bridge over the groove", "bungee on the heating main" and "ekolyata made of snow", but let's move on to the Eternal and fragile — nature.
In the first month of her stay, mom decided to take a walk in the tundra. The result is twofold: escaped from mosquitoes  / urban brats could not stand the harsh conditions
Although nature is harsh, very harsh, but somehow attracts. It is especially interesting how it changes: leaving Dudinka, at the beginning you can see the plain tundra — only lonely fir trees. Then the hilly tundra begins with a beautiful relief and rivers, and already in Talnakh there is a forest and low mountains like (the forest in Talnakh is an anomaly).
My mom missed the trees terribly
The animal world, which I value so much, seemed poor until summer came. Then all sorts of birds unknown to me began to arrive (my Southerner brain is tuned to other birds). Considering that I am an amateur in everything I do, I named all the birds notsparrows.
There should have been a photo and a request to help a young amateur, but taking pictures is not my strong suit

People

I think the main advantage of Taimyr. The people here are at least interesting, but mostly sincere. 

Unlike Norilsk, there are quite a lot of native Northerners — Dolgans in the city. They get benefits here, but some of them decide to buy drinks with them. Not that Russia is not ashamed to buy alcohol (what I wrote! everyone knows that we are leaders in this), but the indigenous people are genetically not immune (or whatever) to alcohol and are prone to alcoholism, and Dolgan drunkards in the city are trouble. Also, many Dolgan children live in a not very prosperous boarding school, so there are plenty of gangs of rowdy (I remember how Dolgan children mocked a Russian boy while there were no adults nearby). The biggest problem is that all this causes a part of the population to dislike the Dolgans, which is sad, because many of them are good people. In defense, we can say that many Dolgans work in museums, most often to promote national culture (in Russia a lot is done to promote national minorities), artists and dancers, choreographers, singers, guides, storytellers. Therefore, it is not necessary to give prejudices to judge a person.

Dudinka schools make up a separate folklore. I can tell a lot of stories, but I think they are not for this community.

A man comes to the guitar teacher with a guitar, new and expensive.  — "Hello, can I exchange your guitar?" — "I can't, it all belongs to the school!" — A man walks through the classroom, points to a guitar for first graders.  —  "I need this one!" — She, barely holding back her laughter, says, —  "So why do you need this! You have such a beautiful, dear, good guitar, why did you drag yourself to us?" —      "But mine doesn't fit in the boat! "

A separate part is the garage culture. By the way, it exists all over Russia, but here it is flourishing. 
 People cook kebabs, celebrate, play cards (not only, of course). Even we celebrated two birthdays of our parents' friends in the garage. 
 Most people work hard and wait for one thing — a vacation! 

Especially lucky if you are from Norilsk Nickel, where you can get a free ticket to choose from: Sochi or Bulgaria (although I think the second shop is already closed). Most often, the first one is chosen for the sake of a good all inclusive (for a few weeks you live for free in a sanatorium with food, medical services, a beach, playgrounds, a swimming pool, a bowling alley and a large territory), Bulgaria is for trips further to the EU — France, Greece, Italy (it was planned to fly further from Bulgaria to Paris, but infamous events have ruined everything).

From time to time, the military swim into the Dudinka, and then the fun begins. On the main streets, a lot of people in uniform are smoking, chatting, queues of infantrymen are lining up in shops. During the day, several people ask how to get to the x point. A military ensemble once came to the art school, where the soloist entered into a controversy with an indomitable vocal teacher.

Dudinka's children use the great Russian ingenuity in all its glory (as well as wrecking and vandalism, spoiling what was made with government money and gutting plush hares on playgrounds), making themselves entertainment from anything, for example, swings from boards (playgrounds are there, but the spirit of inventors does not sleep in children).

In any case, most Dudinka residents are ready—made characters of books with their own unique, interesting traits, mores and zest.

To completion

I haven't said much yet, but I think it's impossible to tell everything. 
 Norilsk and Dudinka have big disadvantages — cold weather, polar night, poor ecology, high prices. But they also have their own amazing and interesting things that make them unique. This, of course, is not the best place to live, but life here is definitely a memorable page.
11 Comments
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Level 67
May 14, 2023
Great blog! It's very grounded in reality and fun to see all the things an obscure town has to offer.
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Level 63
May 14, 2023
Thank you, nice to hear)
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Level 59
May 15, 2023
Great blog! Most Siberian towns are mines/factories that masquerade as a town.The life expectency's 60 That being said, it has a bit to offer.
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Level 63
May 15, 2023
In many ways you are right, especially the cities of Chelyabinsk, Kurgan, Kuzbass, Altai Krai and Krasnoyarsk Krai

But Tyumen oblast, Yugra and Yamal are quite good

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Level 63
May 15, 2023
And low life expectancy is a problem of Russia and the former Socialist Bloc
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Level 78
May 16, 2023
Brilliant blog, it gives a humorous insight into everyday life of a place that most of us haven't heard of, let alone have a chance to visit.

also proves the point that almost all civilians in Russia are not war mongering despots.

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Level 63
May 16, 2023
Very nice to hear! And yes, the governor noticed, the city is very closed, and on arrival you need to pass control, also most people do not support the war because of pity and fraternal feelings for Ukrainians (but not for the Ukrainian government).
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Level 43
May 17, 2023
I quite liked the humor you added here. They are still interesting cities afterall lol
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Level 63
May 17, 2023
Glad to see your comment!
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Level 73
May 17, 2023
Outstanding blog! I always find it interesting to learn about isolated and obscure places like that town on an isolated island in the middle of the vast nothingness of the ocean or a closed city in the middle of the tundra.

You explained everything so nicely and the humour every here and there were also really great additions.

Reminds me of my online penpal from Saratov.. those were good times!

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Level 63
May 17, 2023
Thank you, very nice to hear! Saratov is Ohio at the maximum, but Norilsk is Saratov on maximum